It’s April 26th as I’m compiling this post and according to my iPhone the week see heavy rain and highs of 11C for the British capital. But fear not this is not a weather forecast, just a trend forecast for the summer – granted it will grace as with its presence.
During the SS16 shows in Fall 2015 we saw the seventies allure going strong from stripes at Proenza Schouler, Mary Katrantzou and surprise (!) at Missoni (although they were much thicker and bolder compared to the more obscure versions of seasons past), to metallics at Loewe and Isabel Marant, Saddle Bags at Chloé and Altuzarra, and the new cold shoulder — everywhere. But for any fashion conscious girl or boy out there, you know that fashion is rarely disconnected from the socio-political, and cultural status quo. Au contraire – it usually mirrors it. I must admit that lately I’ve been noticing this 70s nostalgia everywhere: From regularly listening to Jimmy Hendrix and Janis Joplin waiting in line to get my morning cappuccino – not from an indie Brick Lane café but at Starbucks & Pret, to lusting over Olivia Wilde’s turbans, high-waisted denim bell bottoms, and pastel colored lace tops at HBO’s Vinyl (Martin Scorcesse’s and Migg Jagger’s take of the seventies record industry), to Coachella being the more polished, PG-13 version of Woodstock, to the rise of second-wave feminism role models, the popularity of issues such as LGBT, race, hedonism and sexual liberation reminiscent of Mai 68. In short, yes the seventies are back, big time.
But back to the runway trends:
Historically, it was considered taboo to wear stripes due to religious issues, but most importantly stripes were employed to distinguish someone from the rest. The connotations of this approach evolved from being plain evil, to negative, mysterious, and finally to fashionable and haute-couture. From prisoners’ uniforms to tailored suits, a street sign to a set of sheets, Pablo Picasso to Saint Joseph, stripes have always made a bold statement.
At first the stripe was associated with rebels, outcasts, prisoners because it was easier to be see them if they escaped. But in 1850, Queen Victoria dressed one of her sons in stripes, more specifically in a sailor’s suit, thus birthing the nautical trend. In the early 1920’s Coco Chanel wore striped tops to her trips to the French Riviera, turning the stripes into fashionable wear.
Stripes dominated the 2015 catwalks but this year something changed: They became bolder, thicker and completely asymmetrical. On the runways we saw it on Salvatore Feragamo, Prada, and Missoni who contrary to their usual thin stripe this year saw them employing thicker stripes in unusual combinations such as neon green and brown shades.
From 2015 the ode to the 70’s is evident. Following the Mad Men/ kitten heel of the 50’s and the heels of the 60’s round toe pumps. In the 70s were all about bold statements, pop of color, over the top heels, platforms. You’re edgier, a bit of a badass and definitely less dainty.
According to Sarah Watson, VP of Social Commerce at the Yoox Group (including Net-A-Porter) shoulders are a massive trend for SS16, but there’s a noticeable shift in the trend. Last year it was all about the bare boho shoulder, while this year shoulders are more concealed. There’s more architecture, and geometrical cut-outs near the neckline that leave the shoulders exposed.
I don’t know if you noticed but the true protagonist of Coachella weekend Instagram craze wasn’t Kylie Jenner’s cut-out LV swim suit, nor Kendal Jenner’s John Lennon inspired sunnies. The ultimate accessory was the SaddleBag. Coachella aside, we’ve spotted bloggers such as the Blonde Salad and Song of Style featuring it. It’s really an homage to the seventies made famous by Chloé, Coach and Altuzarra. I love it because it’s really versatile, casual-chic and you can wear it effortlessly across the body to festivals, shopping at the beach or even as part of your business attire.
What will you be wearing this Spring/ Summer season?
Send me your comments below!